Rock Climbing is my passion. Its time to train hard and see were it takes me.
Let the journey begin...

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

More rest

My well tapped thumb:
Just spent the morning at the Doctors and Walk In Centre to find out what is wrong with my thumb as it's still not better. There was no fracture but soft tissue damage. It was very swollen after all the prodding. I now have to rest it for a minimum of 3 weeks!

Friday, 30 March 2012

The Recent

I haven't posted for a while now. This is because I have been climbing very little of late. Two weeks ago I did a local bouldering comp at The Pinnacle in Northampton, it was good fun with some funky problems. But on one of the problems I banged my thumb on a volume very hard. I just passed it of as nothing but two weeks later and it still hurts doing everyday tasks.

I am going to start gentle climbing again but am quite enjoying a break to be honest. There are two passions in my life and they are climbing and art. The latter has been neglected for far too many years and I am really enjoying getting stuck into a painting!
This work in progress is what I have been spending my time on recently:


Hopefully my thumb will keep improving and I'll get keen for some limestone pulling over the summer months.

Saturday, 25 February 2012

Rain, Rain Go Away!

Our trip to Font has now been and passed. The first day there we awoke to a cold and crisp -8 with clear blue skies. Cuvier was the chosen destination, we started off by climbing the classic "Marie Rose" 6a and a few others to get warm. We then set off to "Holy Moley", a classic 7a for a team send as most of use had never tried it before, we all swiftly dispatched with big smiles on our faces. I then set to work on its neighbour "Pince Me Pince Moi" a 7b+ that I had played on some years ago but with no success, this time however I had my friend Alex at hand to share the beta as he had done it on a previous trip. A handful of attempts later and I had topped it out. Next on the agenda was a climb called "Hypothesis" a 7c+ that I have always wanted to climb (Its a 'Real Thing' tick!). After a bit of punting around I sent this too. Next we had a little look around Rampart and that concluded our first day in the forest, psyche was high!

"Pince Me Pince Moi"

Unfortunately the rest of the trip was plagued by rain, but we still managed to find a few dry boulders. "L'ange Parfait" was one of these, a super technical 7b arete at Manory. I foolishly stopped trying this amazing classic after finding it scary and hard! Next time I'm in the forest it is on the hit list for sure, and I won't give up so easily next time! "Irreversible" 7c was another we managed to find, its an amazing high prow that definitely intimidates. I repeatedly got to the top move crux but always jumped off due to being SCARED!

Alex on "L'ange Parfait"

On our last day we had a little luck as everything was starting to dry up. We headed to Rocher Greau. First we climbed a very wet "Oliver Twist" 7a+, then we climbed "Les Conquisadores", I have to say this is by far the best 7b I have ever done! It's a high Vert wall with delicate crimp pulling, it's fantastic. I also tried its neighbour "Megalithe" 7c+ but messed it up, yet another problem that shouldn't of got away.

The amazing "Les Conquisadores"

All in all, despite the terrible weather, we had a good trip. We made the most out of the situation and explored different areas, and the few dry problems we found were great. Hopefully the weather will be kind next time, fingers crossed.

Saturday, 4 February 2012

Font!

The other week I bumped into an old friend down the wall and he invited me along on a trip to Font. I would normally umm and ahh at this, thinking about the money I would miss out on from not being at work and the costs of the trip (as I have for the last few years been saving my pennies for a house), but not this time. I have decided to put the house saving on hold and get out on the rock as much as possible this year, so I said yes please! I'm super psyched, this time next week I'll be in the magical forest of Fontainebleu.

Here's a video from Wild Country showing some of the classics that I hope to get on.

Saturday, 7 January 2012

A new year, a much improved board!

An excited Steve

Happy new year to you all! I hope you enjoyed the festive break, I certainly did. However, the days of long lie-ins, lots of wine, chocolate and general indulgence are now being left behind me.

I'm eager to train harder and climb far greater in 2012. Yesterday was certainly a step in the right direction as me and friend Steve spent the day 'pimping' out my board. The goal was to increase the symmetry of the board as well as adding lots of lovely jugs, that's right, jugs! The reason being I want the board to be used for all aspects of my training, which includes volume and light sessions, and not just hard climbing!

The board has turned out far better than I expected, I'm so psyched to get training on it properly. We have made better use of the space by adding more starting holds one and two feet lower than what was already there, as well as adding a greater range of finishing holds and generally bulking out the rest of the board with more variety. I'm going to put some serious effort in this year, and I look forward to seeing what happens….

Tuesday, 13 December 2011

Not So Bad

So it was last monday when I got a flexor tendon strain in my left forearm. I spent the week doing allot of nothing resting up, and thankfully the tendon was feeling better by the day. On friday me and Steve set for the Leicester round of The Leading Ladder so I had to check the routes out. To my surprise I climbed them all and with no pain or discomfort in my forearm making me very pleased.

I had another two days of rest and yesterday entered The Pinnacle's bouldering comp as I had already paid to enter. I was unsure weather to go at first but figured I might as well as I could always miss out the harder problems if need be. Once again to my surprise no pain or discomfort was felt on any of the problems. Physically I felt weaker, but I guess thats to be expected with little climbing over the last four weeks, so I'm looking forward to hitting the climbing hard again soon. For now though I'll take it nice and steady, hopefully regaining full strength in the tendon in a matter of weeks instead of months. Then I'll be a happy bunny!

Tuesday, 6 December 2011

Bad Times

I have been training mostly on the fingerboard the last few week. Progress has been great and everything was feeling strong. However, yesterday when hanging middle finger mono's all was well until I readjusted my left finger due to sore skin, and all of a sudden a sharp pain resembling an electric shock went off in my forearm. I stopped the session straight away and applied ice many times throughout the day. Its hard to say how server it is, at first I thought it wasn't to bad but now I'm not sure as pain has been felt doing such tasks as opening the fridge! I guess time will tell, fingers crossed…